DIY: Full Flush for Automatic Transmission

I did a full flush on my automated transmission (06 V6 TRD Sport 2wd with out towing package deal) right now [45.1k miles]. I have not seen any detailed DIY write up’s on the method so right here it goes (be happy to make sticky):

Total it is very simple to do and never rather more sophisticated than the usual ~3qt drain/fill. The method you probably have the tow package deal is basically the identical, besides your ATF cooling strains will probably be going to a small oil cooler vs going to the radiator. If in case you have a 4×4, the transmissions will look totally different than my footage, however this will likely nonetheless assist to information you thru the method.

Exterior of getting access to a flush machine, that is the following neatest thing – and free besides fluid prices. A really small quantity of authentic fluid does get blended in, however it’s negligible. With out dropping the pan and attaching a particular machine to the precise ATF pump, this works simply in addition to an ordinary flush machine. There’s a steel display screen (not a real filter) within the pan, however from every part posted prior, it’s not essential to drop the pan and clear it this early – 100ok miles or longer is okay.

*Provides wanted:
4.0L V6 w/ Computerized Transmission
1. 13+ quarts of Toyota WS ATF fluid (Amsoil ATL or RedLine D6 are additionally appropriate and nice to make use of [I bought 15 and used 14 quarts of Amsoil ATL])
2. 2 crush washers from vendor (half #: 35178-30010 ) (you’ll be able to in all probability get away with reusing the originals, however they’re solely $2 new)
3. 5mm hex socket, 14mm socket, 12mm socket, 24mm socket and ratchet
4. Gear lube pump
5. Graduated bucket + milk jug (or the like) to gather previous fluid
6. 16ga or thinner wire
7. Torque wrench
8. Pliers
9. Nitril/latex gloves
10. Loads of paper towels


**Service Specs:

A750E/F Computerized Transmission Dry Fill = 10.9 liter / 11.5 US qts Toyota ATF WS
Drain plug torque: 28 N*m (21 ft.*lbf)
Overflow plug torque: 20 N*m (15 ft.*lbf)
Refill plug torque: 39 N*m (29 ft.*lbf)

***Service (drain) the fluid beneath 86 *F (i.e. chilly)

Step 1: Loosen the fill plug (24mm – WS is stamped in the midst of it) on passenger aspect of transmission close to the drive shaft, you’ll be able to take away it or depart it in finger tight for now. The rubber o-ring will be reused right here – take care to not harm it.


Step 2: Take away the drain plug (14mm) on the underside of the transmission pan and be ready to catch any fluid that comes out w/ your graduated bucket. Permit all fluid to come back out, in case your fluid is chilly you must get about Three quarts. You possibly can rock the truck as soon as it stops draining and get fairly a bit extra out, however this is not crucial. As soon as the fluid has stopped draining, substitute the 14mm plug w/ the brand new crush washer and tighten with torque wrench to 21 ft.*lb.


At this level you have drained about Three qts, however be aware of the exact quantity you get.


Step 3: Take away the fill plug you loosened earlier – it is time to add an equal quantity of latest fluid that was faraway from the drain plug. Route your oil pump hose into the fill gap and safe it. Pump within the correct quantity. I added Three qts. As soon as completed, take away the pump hose from the fill plug, you’ll be able to depart the fill plug bolt out.



Step 4: Take away your skid plate you probably have one. There are Four bolts (12mm socket) securing it. This makes entry for the following step considerably simpler and can prevent time.


Step 5: Find the 2 ATF cooler strains on the passenger aspect of the transmission. You will note two strains shut collectively working in direction of the entrance of the truck. The highest line is the oil cooler outlet tube (fluid returns to the transmission on this line) and the underside line is the oil cooler inlet tube (oil is pumped out of the transmission to the radiator or tow pkg cooler). You need the outlet tube (crimson) – hint this line the entrance of the truck to the purpose the place the steel piping ends and the rubber hose is related with a tube clamp. You’ll see 2 steel strains on the entrance of the truck just below the radiator and behind the body. The highest/ahead most line is your return/outlet line. It will definitely ends/connects to the underside of your radiator or to your cooler. Disconnect the passenger aspect rubber hose (the place crimson arrow is). The motive force’s aspect goes to the radiator(do not disconnect). Just a few drops got here out once I disconnected it, so do not anticipate it to pour out and make a multitude.




Loosen and slide this clamp right down to free the connection between the hose and the piping. I wanted to make use of pliers to *rigorously* pull the hose off because it was caught on there fairly good). Connect the three/Eight clear tubing to the steel pipe on the connection you simply eliminated. Chances are you’ll want stretch the tubing out some on the tip to get it on the steel pipe simpler. as soon as firmly connected, you’ll be able to route the clear tube into your bucket (or use a transparent jug with quart marks lined off – I opted to make use of this so I may see it filling simpler).




Step 6: With the tube routed into your bucket, you are prepared to begin the engine and permit the fluid to pump out into the bucket. It pumps out at about 1 qt each 7 seconds. I did this on my own, however had sufficient time to begin the engine, get out and watch it fill. Do NOT rev the engine, simply let it idle. I turned the engine off as soon as ~2.5 qts had pumped out. Be certain to not enable greater than 2-Three quarts to come back out, you don’t need the inner pump to run dry. You can too shift from Park by means of all of the gears if you want, although I am unsure if it makes a distinction. I did this as soon as for the heck of it.


At this level you have flushed out over half the previous fluid (~Three qts from the drain pan + one other ~2.5 qts from cooler/rad strains). This will probably be your authentic fluid and may provide you with an thought of how soiled it’s.

Step 7: Time so as to add extra new fluid – reconnect your oil pumper to the fill gap and add in roughly what you eliminated within the earlier step. As soon as the brand new fluid has been added, take away the pump hose once more from the fill gap. Dump out the previous fluid in your bucket/jug right into a waste container or the empty qt. containers. It is time to repeat step 6.

You’ll do these two steps a number of occasions to your liking. I’d advocate repeating these steps till you have added a minimum of 9 qts (not together with the unique Three from the pan [total 12]) – though you may discover by the point you have accomplished step 6 twice, the fluid popping out is significantly cleaner and far redder.

You might in all probability get away with solely including the unique Three qts and doing the steps above with 7-Eight qts (whole of 10-11 new qts) to avoid wasting $$ on fluid. I ended up utilizing 14 qts whole, and the final 2 qts that got here out nearly seemed like new fluid…so somewhat little bit of a waste and doubtless overkill w/ this a lot.

Make sure to save a minimum of 1 quart of latest fluid in case it’s good to add extra in the course of the verify stage course of.

Step 8: As soon as you have flushed ~12 quarts or the quantity of your satisfaction, take away the three/Eight clear tubing from the ATF cooler line. A couple of drops will come out of the steel finish, however not a lot, so don’t be concerned about it gushing out. Reconnect the unique rubber oil cooler outlet line to the steel piping going again to the transmission and put the tube clamp again in place. Guarantee that the road is cosy and firmly connected. Clear up any ATF that will have spilled.


Step 9: You may wish to add about 1/Three qt further while you’re all completed in order that you do not have to do the fluid verify stage greater than as soon as – simply let the additional drain out to the fitting stage. Change the fill plug bolt handy tight – you may torque it down later, or in the event you’re forgetful you are able to do it now (29 ft.*lb).

Step 10: At this level you must have roughly the correct quantity of fluid within the AT and every part is reconnected. It is time to carry out the fluid stage verify to make sure that the correct amount of fluid is within the transmission. I’ll briefly go over this as a fantastic write up has already been accomplished by ForTech ( board/2nd-gen-tacomas/63851-how-drain-refill-automatic-transmission.html ). Do NOT use an IR thermometer – the pan studying will not be anyplace near the inner temperature.

Cliffs notes model, however I extremely recommend studying ForTech’s submit:

Be sure you’re parked on stage floor,
Begin truck, shift by means of all gears a number of occasions to get new fluid moved throughout.
Utilizing a small wire, soar pins Four and 13 on the ODBII port.
Begin the truck, you must see a variety of your sprint lights flashing.
From park, put truck in impartial for 2-Three seconds
Shift right down to drive for ~1 second, sufficient for it to barely interact the gear then return to impartial then again to drive after ~1 second. (repeat Three occasions, whole of 6 shifts).
As soon as again in impartial after sixth shift, you must see AT Temp in crimson gentle up for two seconds on the Tach face plate.
Shift again to park, you must see the AT temp gentle once more for two seconds then go off. In the event you do not see this, you have tousled and have to do it once more.
Let the truck idle till the AT temp gentle stays on. It is shut when it begins flickering. It might take as much as 20 minutes of idling to get to temp, particularly in colder environments.

Step 11: With the AT Temp gentle on and the truck nonetheless idling, take away the verify plug(5mm hex). Be conscious of the Y-pipe / exhaust because it’s scorching and you’ll burn your self if greater than calmly touched. Even have your catch bucket prepared. Hopefully you have added somewhat greater than what’s wanted and fluid will come out. Permit fluid to empty till it is a gentle/skinny trickle. Add your new crush washer to the bolt and substitute the bolt torquing to spec (15 ft.*lb). Flip the engine the off.

Step 12: In the event you had a very good little bit of fluid come out and at the moment are on the correct stage, torque down the refill plug(24mm / 29 ft.*lb) in the event you didn’t achieve this in step 9. In the event you didn’t add sufficient fluid – ie nothing got here out – substitute the verify bolt, flip off the engine after which add 1/Three to half of qt extra new fluid into the fill plug. Undergo the steps in Step 10 to the get the AT Temp sense mode again on and verify the fluid once more as described in step 11.

Step 13: Change your skid plate in the event you eliminated it from step 4.

Step 14:
Double verify all of your connections and bolts – Clear up any spilled fluid on truck.

That is it.

A couple of comparative footage:
Authentic oil(left) / Model new(proper) [color is probably no indicator of usable life]

After 12 contemporary quarts had been flushed by means of (left)/ Model new (proper) [12qt sample was only slightly darker, but not much].

I will probably be sending a pattern I took from the drain pan when it was scorching to Blackstone to see what situation the oil was in after 45ok miles. Needs to be every week or so and I am going to append the outcomes to affirm whether or not or not this early of a flush actually must be accomplished or not. Regardless – early/preventative upkeep is value it to me.


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